Ruaha Road Trip

Christmas in Dar es Salaam – it’s a little different! Since consumer society is limited to the top 10% of the population (or less) and roughly half the local population is Muslim, there’s just no room for the wall to wall media blitz of “Christmas is coming” that we are used to. There is some hype – but when the upscale shopping centres put Christmas carols on their PA systems and you hear “Rudolf the Red-Nosed Reindeer” or “I’m dreaming of a White Christmas”, it seems a little weird, given that it is 35 Celsius outside.

So we made a few compromises and put our Christmas lights on the potted palm on our balcony, and called that the Christmas tree.

And that’s where we opened the presents. Spencer and Sally arrived from Beirut the day before Christmas and Winnie came the week before that so there were five of us to open presents - Kenge cloth and African masks (from Kigoma region) were big hits !

(That’s Sally, Spencer and Winnie – guess who’s who!)

And we actually had a very fine turkey for Christmas dinner, at our friends Judy and Bob’s – but we also headed home in good time, hoping to make an early start the next day.

Ruaha National Park was our destination – specifically, Tandala Tented Camp, which is just outside the park gates. But it is about 110 Km past Iringa (which is 395 Km from Dar), and we did not want to be wandering about on strange dirt roads in the dark – so we aimed the first day at stopping a bit before Iringa, then coming on to Tandala in time for a game ride the first afternoon.

In Canada, a day’s drive of 400 Km would be easy – but even if we were travelling on the country’s main highway, which is paved and sometimes well maintained, it is tough driving. Essentially all the commerce of the nation goes down the two lane Morogoro road – plus all the  trade of Burundi and much of Northern Malawi, Zambia and eastern Congo – so huge lumbering lorries and their trailers compete for kamikaze status and space on the road with intercity buses, cars and innumerable over-laden bicycles and herds of goats. Most buses and trucks sport slogans on their rear end like – “Haki ya Mungu” (“Will of God”) or “Inshe Allah” (“Praise the Lord”), and you quickly  understand  why as you watch them pull out to pass on a blind hilltop.

A little after Morogoro, the highway passes through Mikumi National Park, where the baboons and giraffes and elephants are just not impressed by motorists – even if we were very impressed by them.

By the end of our safari, herds of giraffe and antelope were pretty “ho-hum, seen that” kind of events – but the first sightings in Mikumi were a big thrill.

Soon after that, we came to the escarpment, and the road zigged and zagged as it ascended  to the highlands. When we stopped for the night, it was suddenly cool – in the hotel we stayed in one the way back, there were even fireplaces in the rooms!

 Next day we were on the road early and even before we got to the park boundary, while pounding along the dirt road leading to the camp, whom should we meet but a very impressive bull elephant, right in the middle of the road!

But most of our game viewing was done from the back seats of a converted Toyota Land Cruiser, since we hired a guide and driver from Tandala, who were excellent.

Ruaha is a huge park (over 20,000 square Kms), and the scenery is magnificent. We were there just at the start of the rains, so the yellow-browns of the dry season were being replaced by subtle shadings of green as the fresh grass pushed its way up. Later on, we are told, the wild flowers are amazing, and in the full dry season the animals congregate more at the few watering holes, so it’s probably pretty different at different times.  Who knows if we would have liked it even more at some other time – but certainly it was an amazing series of game drives over the three days we were there.

Apparently, although baobab trees can live for centuries, they are a cellular kind of tree and during the dry season elephants will break open their sides and chew pieces of the tree trunk, to get the moisture that is in it. Since baobab trees are hollow, the result is dozens of hobbit homes dotting the landscape.

And the birds are just amazing – crested cranes particularly!

One of most photogenic moments actually came as we returned to camp, and a herd of elephants decided to cross the road in front of us.

Our guide, Kenneth, promised us a view of a lion – and delivered on the last day! (remember that these are open-sided vehicles we are in – I did find myself wondering how many milli-seconds it would take him to cover the twenty feet to our vehicle, but I guess he was not very hungry.)

And we actually did not have to bump around in an old Toyota to see game. The Tandala Tented Camp set up is that large tents are built on raised treetop height platforms by the riverbank, and animals are attracted to the water provided by a borehole. So at sundown one can enjoy a gin and tonic on one’s balcony, and watch the elephants as they amble through the area. And later listen to them wander through the camp in the night, and the next morning, admire their foot prints on the path (management was quite insistent that we should be accompanied by a Masai guard when we went to our tents after dark, although I am not sure what he would have done with his spear, if we had met an elephant then).

Our last day came all too soon – we went for an early morning walking safari and said goodbye to our hosts (both second generation Greco-Tanzanians who had been borne in the area) and we were off. We stopped for a bit of shopping in Iringa – which looks to be a very pleasant and bustling town, perched on a cliff top overlooking the valley. 

Molly, Winnie and Sally could not resist the beautiful fabrics, and had fun getting measured by the sidewalk seamstress, who sewed up three very fine dresses for 10,000 Tshs ($8 Cdn) each and had them ready for 8 AM the next morning!

And then we were back on the road – a few nano-seconds of gut-wrenching adrenalin interspersed seven hours of driving, and we were home before dark, ready to see in the New Year!

Words by Lars – all photos by Spencer, Winnie, Molly and Sally. Hassle of selecting from 1550 photos and uploading to the web – entirely MOLLY !!!

Dar Reality

It is possible to live in this country and never be confronted with the reality that it is one of the poorest nations in the world. A foreigner can spend his/her entire time on the "peninsula" with its expensive shops, restaurants and cafes  laid out on winding streets lined with flowering trees and mansions. Excursions downtown or to the airport in an airconditioned car might give one an inkling that another world exists, but since most of it is down tiny, dirt lanes off the major boulevards it is easy to pretend it is not there. 
One day last November (and again a few weeks ago) a few intrepid cyclists embarked on a tour of the Swahili neighbourhoods, led by Mejah,  who works for a small tour company specializing in "community benefiting tourism".  We delved into the areas between the boulevards which look like a sea of tin roofs, and which are mostly inaccessible by car. Apart from the fact that it was great to be on a bike again,  the day was wonderful in many other respects - we met friendly people, we found businesses and activities that we may revisit on our own, but mainly the tour demystified the area for us.

Here are a few of the places we visited:

Coffee sellers walk the streets, selling small cups of strong black coffee. The coffee is kept hot by coals in a pan under the pot. Here is where some of this coffee is made - first the beans are roasted over an open fire, then ground with a mortar and pestle. Then it is boiled over an open fire for a minute or two, and served with a peanut brittle type sweet. Absolutely delicious, and at 100Tsh ($0.08) for both, a bargain! It is a good example of the double economy which exists here - a cup of Espresso in a peninsula cafe would cost you at least 2000Tsh!

These children live in a house in which each of the 6  rooms in the main house and 2 in the shed in the back are inhabited by one family. Most of the living is done in this outdoor courtyard, although the charcoal cooking fires are in the hall inside. According to Mejah, this is a more "middle class" neighbourhood. 

This is the front verandah of the house. Like most Swahili houses, there is a business or two that operates from the verandah - in this case a shoe repair shop and a chapatti seller. 

Tiny fruit stalls abound in this neighbourhood - here is that wonderful jackfruit that Lars' curiousity demanded he buy - no one in our household at the time could imagine what its attraction  could be - it has a sticky consistency and a smell of bubble gum that didn't even seem to appeal to the crows  who scavenge on our balcony!

This low lying area, which floods frequently from this garbage choked stream, is in one of the poorest neighbourhoods. The little bridge (quite exciting to cross!) is maintained by Mejah's other affiliation - a small group dedicated to promoting cycling in the city. Their office is just across the bridge, and when we returned for a second time, the stream had been unchoked and considerably cleaned up by a community effort sparked by this group. It gives me hope for other areas in the city, where the scourge of plastic garbage (especially bags and water bottles) blocks drains and pollutes public areas. Blocked drains lead to floods, which when they involve the flooding of pit latrines and basic sewers, are a serious health issue (there have been several deaths in Dar due to cholera recently).

We dropped in on this traditional healer's house, and were shown her small garden (on the right) where she grows various  herbs known to cure common ailments.

A shop where traditional medicines are sold - ground up shells, herbs and many other concoctions whose ingredients were not divulged.

The "Old Traford" (sic) is one of many makeshift "movie theatres" where for 100Tsh, you can watch a video (usually Nigerian or one of the new Tanzanian productions). There didn't seem to be any women here, and unfortunately a lot of these theatres were extremely loud!

Street scene

This lady serves delicious ginger tea on her verandah

We stopped at the busy Tendale Market, where we learned about some of the mysterious ingredients that we see, but have not yet had the courage to try. This woman is pounding cassava leaves, which makes a paste good for stews etc and is apparently full of protein! And I always thought cassava was just a starch...

Almost any type of furniture you desire can be made locally - including coffins! (see centre of photo)
























When you don't own a lot, moving isn't such a big production! This person's possessions are being moved on a bicycle cart.

Not least of the wonders revealed on this tour was a whole street full of kange shops - an amazing selection of colours and designs. I was happy to find a non-touristy place to buy fabric.

Finally, as if we needed a another reminder of Dar's garbage problem, a few weeks ago, we went away for a couple of days and came home to this....After a big storm (blamed on El Nino), the sea gave up all the city's garbage that has made its way into it through the drains and other ways, and deposited it right on the beach outside our window! 

So there's a bit of Dar reality for you - the colour, the community, the garbage, the health issues, the vibrancy, the poverty, the human ingenuity in evidence at each turn....truly a city to inspire both love and despair. But lately I am choosing to have hope that things are getting better - witness  the 4 new classrooms at my school, all built since I was there in November!

Happy New Year!

Season's Greetings

Here we are celebrating our longest day (by 10 minutes or so).

Wishing you all a very happy holiday season, and all the best for the New Year!

Lars and Molly

Scenes from the Serengeti

Finally, some lions and other wild creatures!

There has been a long gap in postings as I have been traveling - first to Toronto to visit with Kirsty, Ryan, Immy and of course new baby Evelyn. Then,  off on safari to the Serengeti and Ngorogoro with my  81 year old (today - happy birthday!) Mum and sister-in-law Rita. We dubbed ourselves the Ladies #1 Tanzania Touring Company, and what a time we had!

We flew to Arusha, where we were met by Naiman, reputedly one of the best guides in the business, and then drove straight off to Lake Manyara, where we caught sight of our first giraffes and hippos, basking in the setting sun. We slept that night in a tent (quite luxurious by the way) overlooking the Rift Valley.

The next day, we drove to Lake Ndutu lodge, 28 km along a dirt track away from the main  road through the Serengeti. The wildebeest migration had started, and the plains were full of them, many kinds of antelope, zebras and other less visible animals and birds. We had 3 days here, each one full of excitement!

Breakfasting with the lions - really! As we were setting up, Naiman announced he could see a lioness. We thought he was joking - fortunately, the lioness had already had her breakfast.

Sunrise at Ndutu                                                    One of 3 male cheetahs lazing under a tree

This shot of a leopard took 2 hours to get! We watched, riveted, while he stalked some reedbuks who were feasting on watercress by the Seronara river. We couldn't actually see the leopard at this point, but the drama was in the reedbuks' reaction - they sniffed the breeze, ran away, pranced back, irresistibly drawn by the watercress and then finally took off up the river. At this point the leopard gave up and went back to the tree, where he laid along a branch to get some sun.

After visiting a Masai village, where we supported the local economy by paying exorbitant amounts (relatively) for our souvenirs, and a stop at Oldupai Gorge, we continued on to Ngorogoro Crater, where we stayed in a lovely hotel perched on the rim.

This little kindergarten in the Masai village, with its blue desks donated from China, was taught by an unmarried girl (so therefore under 18) with maybe primary education. Educating girls is still not a priority, although that may be changing slowly.

Somehow gin and tonics taste better wearing dressing gowns and Masai necklaces. I have spared you the shots of Mum and I dancing with the Masai women...

Inside the crater was tremendous...we saw 14 black rhinos, beating Naiman's personal best of 13 in one day. Black rhinos are the same colour as white rhinos...the difference is in the shape of the snout. Rita and I also took a stroll around on top of the rim, accompanied by Lyimo and his AK47. I thought that was a bit of overkill (!) until he told us about having shot 3 charging African buffalo a few weeks before. Luckily we didn't meet any elephants, lions or buffalo on our walk, although the next day we saw buffalo right outside the gates of the hotel. We did climb down and meet 7 or 8 Masai women who had spent the whole day waiting for a small water hole to fill up with water. By the time we got there, they had filled only one of their buckets and it was late afternoon.

The whole trip was a completely different tourism experience from anything else we have encountered in Tanzania - 4 course English style meals, driver and a planned schedule of activities. It was beautifully planned and carried out from beginning to end - I highly recommend it for a once in a lifetime experience!