For the past few weeks I have been spending a few hours every day at the Dogodogo Centre for Street Children in Kigogo, a suburb of Dar. Most schools have been having a 2 week “spring break”, and activities were organized all day long for the children. My English class was one optional activity, and it was open to any boys who wanted to come. Most days there were between 30 and 40 boys there, although it is difficult for me to know how many of them came every day.
The Dogodogo Centre was established in 1995
by Sister Jean, an American nun, who I actually met at a Canadian gathering
last October. She has been living in Tanzania for 40 years – came the same time
Lars did, so they bonded over a few comparisons. No one knows how many children
are on the street in Tanzania, but they are very obvious when you are stopped
at an intersection – they are the ones who dump dirty water on your windshield
and then try to mop it off, the more professional ones using an old wiper
blade. 60 boys live at the
Dogodogo Centre now and they all attend primary school in the neighbourhood.
They range in age from 9 to 17, and most of them don’t speak a word of English.
I don’t
have much idea about the backgrounds of the boys, although I believe that many
of them have run away from abusive situations. They are not necessarily
orphans, and the Centre makes attempts to reunite them with their families, or
at least allow them to visit from time to time. Some of them are AIDs orphans,
whose relatives were unable to look after them (some grandparents are simply
overwhelmed by the number of grandchildren left in their care). Many of the
boys come from remote parts of the country, and getting to Dar has been quite
an adventure for them. They seem to love to draw their villages, and one boy
told me his father is in New York. I think some of the boys have never been to
school – at least a few cannot even write their own names. And girls? When I
asked about why there are no girls, the answer is that they just don’t last on
the streets – they either get taken on as domestics in situations similar to
slavery, or are inducted into the sex trade.
Note the Uhuru (freedom) Flame atop Mt.Kilimanjaro - 2 of the most potent symbols of Tanzania
The Centre itself is located in a shabby
neighbourhood, and appears a bit down-at-heel physically. However the boys are
well fed (I come in at the tail end of lunch, and they are all eating heaping
plates of ugali, beans, spinach and sometimes meat), they sleep in bunk beds (8
to a room) and there are many adults including social workers to keep track of
them. There is a bus which ferries
them to afterschool activities at the Tanzania Cigarette Corporation everyday,
and they seem to go on outings from time to time. But the big thing is that
they have a chance at an education and a vocation! I met an “old boy” who is
now at boarding school in Dodoma – quite an achievement for a street child!
I am so impressed with the
work that goes on here, and how they manage with very little funding. The
volunteer board spends a lot of time looking for sources of funding, and
recently the local government has reduced its share…changing priorities. I have
heard of several orphanages who have had to close because they can’t afford to
feed the children, it seems that
Dogodogo has reached a sustainable way to operate.
So we
have been reading stories, singing songs,
practicing and performing a “rap”, playing games (Simon Says is a big
favourite) and sometimes I squeak in a little actual teaching. We made a movie
(more a slide show) with their pictures and a voice over based on a story we
had read. I wish I had more time with them – my one regret is that I didn’t
discover this place until quite recently, and now I have to go!
I haven’t
really had a lot of time to get to know the other staff, and really find out
what goes on at the Centre because every day when it is time to leave, the
smaller boys pack up my stuff and fight over who gets to carry the basket to
the car. I thought they just loved me until one day a boy carefully put the
basket on the front seat of the car, and then leaned over and whispered
confidentially, “Give me 200!” (shillings). Old habits!
Just goofing around with my camera!
But I did
drive “Brother Nicholas”, one of the social workers, part way home one day, and
had an interesting chat with him. He told me that everyday, one of the 3 social
workers goes to one of the places where street children hang-out (the Ubungo
bus terminal, the fish market) and takes food hoping to make contact with boys
who might be possibilities for the centre. I didn’t quite get as far as finding
out what the criteria for entry are, but I know that the boys need to show
readiness for living in a structured situation and going to school…not all of them
are ready. But Brother Nicholas also is the one who, apropros of the question
“How many children do you have?” (not “Do you have children? – Tanzanians never
phrase it like that), expressed surprise when I gave my stock answer (5
children) and said, “We are not used to Wazungu (foreigners) having such big
families”. So I felt I should level with him, and told him that actually 2 of
the children were mine, and 3 were my husband’s originally. Whereupon he said,
“Your husband married you with 2 children? That would never happen in
Tanzania!”
When I
leave Tanzania, the faces of these boys and their eagerness to learn will
probably be the most enduring memory I will take with me.
Thanks Rita, Mum and friends for all the books and school supplies - as you can see, they are well appreciated!
I so much enjoyed reading this entry. It is heart-warming to know that something is being done.. to feel that an effort can make a difference. Hard to read about the girls. I am touched to that this will be your most enduring memory.
ReplyDeleteYou are brave to be teaching such large numbers of children .. I am curious how a lesson on a typical day might go...